Valentino: it’s like going into a fashion fairy tale and never want to wake up. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli found a winning recipe that is fascinating the industry (and consumers). A dreamy collection.
Sacai: elaborate wools, pieces of fur, vintage military inspirations, layers and embroideries in rich colours were mixed in a clever show.
Prada: the company may be going through troubled times but Miuccia’s creativity seems unshakeable. It was one of these collections that you are still digesting long after the lights are off.
Mary Katrantzou: proving that she can go beyond printing, her delicate yet crafty creations were simply a delight.
Marc Jacobs: in two words: pure emotion. Victoriana, Goth, Varsity… Marc is a master of mash up and once again he nailed the art of bringing together the most diverse references and built a remarkable collection.
Gucci: I still have mixed feelings about Alessandro Michele’s “Margot Tenenbaum” Gucci, but the fact that he is not afraid to try deserves some credit. And the collection was fun!
Emporio Armani: because every now and then it’s good to see a sober, classic brand taking risks and playing around with colours and fabrics.
Dries Van Noten: without much ado and paying homage to Marchesa Casati, the collection proposed a reflection about gender roles and lavish lifestyles. Mesmerizing.
Balenciaga: I must confess that I wasn’t particularly excited by Demna Gvasalia’s debut at the house. What a pleasant surprise! He translated Cristobal’s concept of tailoring for the 21st century, filling it up with streetwear references without missing the allure of the label. I was only a little disappointed to see very similar pieces at his label, Vetements….
Alexander McQueen: Surrealism never looked so dramatic thanks to Sarah Burton. Every detail was a reminder of what makes us tickle when watching a show.