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Replace the founder of a brand, especially when he is still alive, is one of the most challenging duties in terms of branding. Amongst the most recent and dramatic cases is Valentino. For 45 years, the designer was the heart and soul of the label, sharing with his clients – including icons as Jackie O. – a glamourous lifestyle of partying in palaces, yachting in the Mediterranean and private jetting with his pet pugs. If you watched the documentary “Valentino: the Last Emperor”, which I highly recommend, you know what I’m talking about. The slightly unwilling retirement was celebrated in a memorable night in Rome and happened at the same time Valentino Fashion Group S.p.A was sold to Permira group, in 2007, which renegotiated the brand with Qatar holding, Mayhola for Investments, five years later.
Despite his removal, the designer kept following the studio work and the first name to take his realms, Alessandra Facchinetti, was a disappointment. She was replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaulo Piccioli, the in-house senior designers responsible for accessories. Since 2009, the duo has been working in rejuvenating the brand and updating its identity with lace dresses, embroideries, florals and pastel hues, inspired by the Renaissance, Baroque and even fairy tales. The accessories received special attention and already represent half of sales, thanks especially to the Rockstud line, coveted and exhaustively copied.
The couple’s approach was so successful that the company hit $1 billion in revenues by the end of 2015, two years before the deadline. The secret was being faithful to the Lover archetype and tweak the style without compromising the brand image. The Valentino essence of romance, femininity, glamour and sophistication keeps attracting and inspiring generations of women.